Shed Assembly Instructions

Levelling the Floor

Choose a location for your shed that is relatively level and stable. A concrete pad, stable asphalt or properly-installed paving stone is ideal.

You can install on grass or dirt by resting the shed's corners on patio stones, but if the ground heaves (water in the soil freezes and expands, pushing up a corner of the shed), you may have to re-level the shed in the Spring.

Put the floor structure in your desired location. The front of the floor structure is marked.

To level the floor, first locate the highest corner. You can use your level to do this, or it may be visually obvious. (If you don't know how to use a level, find out here.)

Starting from the high corner, lay the level down on one of the outside 2x4's of the floor. The corner at the end of the level - away from the high corner - will likely need to be built up to achieve level. Place the shimming material (various dimensions of wood blocks) beneath the aluminum pieces at the ends of the floor structure. Use the pieces of wood to raise the first side to level and the small plastic shims, if neccessary, for small increment adjustments. (You can snap off excess plastic shim by bending it towards yourself.) Go to the next adjacent side and do the same. Repeat until the floor is level.

Installing the Sides

The sides have corner brackets pre-installed. Lower one of the sides onto the protruding aluminum pieces at the end of the floor base, making sure that the shorter end of the side is at the front of the shed.

Push the sides down fully onto the aluminum. Also, push the side fully against the edge of the floor base - closing any gap.

While one person holds the installed end, install the second side.

Then attach one of the the included ratchet straps to the eye hooks at the base of each side. Tighten the ratchet straps to pull both sides tightly together. Here's a link on how to use a ratchet strap if you don't know how.

Installing the Roof

Carry the roof over to the shed with a person holding it on either end.

Lower the roof onto the sides

Attach the second ratchet strap to the eye hooks at the top of the sides and tighten.

Checking for Square

In order to make sure the front opening of the shed is square (meaning the front opening is a near perfect rectangle - four 90 degree angles), we must measure diagonally in both directions. The measurement from the right top to the left bottom should be the same as the measurement from the left top to the right bottom. See the photos for technique (Please note the numbers on the tape measure in the photos are not accurate.)

If one side is greater than the other, push that side slightly inwards until both measurements are the same. Use the enclosed clamps to lock an interior brace to the roof and floor to hold the square after finalizing your adjustments. (see photo)

Using the enclosed 1.5" screws, attach all black metal braces to the floor and roof of shed. Use the enclosed pilot bit to pre-drill the holes. Once all the braces have been attached, remove the ratchet straps.

Flooring

Once all side braces have been attached to the frame, remove the two plywood braces from the floor. Locate the package of 1x6 floor boards.

Remove the board with notches at either end. Slide this board into place at the front of the shed, making sure the front of the board aligns with front of the base of the shed.

Using the enclosed 1.5" screws, attach this board and the next four boards to the floor joists using two screws at each joist including the end joists. Pilot any screw close to the edge of a board where there is the risk of splitting. Butt the boards up against each other, leaving no gaps

Installing the Back

Find the two square back pieces. They are marked left and right and go into their respective sides of the shed.

Start with the left piece. Angle the top of it towards the back of the shed and slide it into place flush with the left post of the shed and resting on the shed base.

Next, slide in the right piece, having it butt up against the right wall. The two pieces should overlap in the middle. Attach the back pieces at top, bottom and sides at about 6" intervals using the 1.25" screws included.

Next, locate the mid back support with the steel lock ring. Centre this on the seam in the middle of the back. Attach this board to the top with two 1" screws (one to either edge of the board) and to the bottom with 2 screws. Also attach it about 18" down from the top and 18" up from the bottom.

Finally, install the two remaining floor boards.

Installing the Doors

Attaching the hinges to the doors (Some doors may come with hinges pre-attached) Remove the hinges from their packaging and align the top hinge with the top of the door, and the bottom hinge with the bottom of the door. Centre your pilot bit in a hinge hole and drill a hole for your first screw. Repeat for all four hinges, making sure that the edge of the hinge is flush with the edge of the door.

Lay out the 3 small pieces of plywood for temporary door support - one against each side and one in the middle and flush with the front of the shed. (See image)

Take one of the doors and rest it on the temporary door supports and about 1/4" to 3/8" from the shed frame. Extend the hinges so they sit on the wood side post. (See image) Have one person hold this door while the second person places the second door. The doors should be separated in the middle by about 3/4" to 1". If the doors are slightly out of alignment (likely due to your frame being slightly out of square), you can use some of the enclosed plastic shims to push up the doors slightly, placing them between the temporary door support and the door. (See image) Once you are satisfied with the alignment, screw the hinges to the shed posts.

Attaching the door stop components
Swing the doors so they are perfectly in-line with the horizontal beam above them. (See image. You don't need a square - purely for illustrative purposes) If they align perfectly, you can choose either door to attach the door backing board to. If one of the doors sits back a little, attach the door backing board to this one. (See image) Attach the door backing board to the inside of the chosen door. It should overlap the door by about an inch and stick out about 3". (See image)
Next attach the lower door stop (piece of 4" 2x4). Again, align the door you've attached the door backing board to to the front of the shed. Attach the lower door stop with the enclosed 2.5" screws as in the image.
Next attach the upper door stop.Using four 1.5" screws, attach the upper door stop to the plywood above the door and directly inline with the door backing board. (See image)

Attaching the slide bolt latches
Included are two slide bolt latches. One attaches to the top of the door and the second attaches to the bottom of the door. Both of these attach to the door without the door backing board. (See images) As in the photo, attach the main part of the latch to the door and the small bracket to the shed frame. If the fit at the top is too tight, use the enclosed spacer to set back the top door stop. (See image) If the fit at the bottom is too tight, adjust the placement of the lower door stop.

Attaching the door handles
Attach the handles as in the photo using the screws enclosed in the packaging.